Sleeveless Starlight City Dress Pattern Hack


At the beginning of the summer some of my favorite Instagramers Angie and Jenn were posting their modified versions of the Starlight City Dress and I fell in love with their sleeveless styles!!

These two ladies make some amazing things so make sure to follow them on Instagram!  They always inspire me with their projects and pretty fabrics :)

Follow Jenn on IG here

Follow Angie on IG here

Unfortunately time has a way of getting away from me especially during the summer when my girls are off from school but I finally had a minute to sew/blog about how you can achieve this look also....too bad summer is almost over for us :( 

Because I needed an excuse to finally make my own SLEEVELESS version of the Starlight City Dress and the only way I can do that is by setting up a deadline for myself, Lil Luxe Collection is starting something new.  Every first Friday of the month ONE pattern will be available for $5 FOR 24 HOURS ONLY!! This month we featured the girls Starlight City Dress...I hope you got your copy for $5 if you didn't have it already!  To keep you sewing and to put that $5 pattern to use, we'll be posting a pattern hack and/or sewing tutorial that relates to the pattern of the month in the following weeks.

...enter Starlight City Dress Sleeveless pattern hack! So here we go!

First a couple notes.  

1. Angie, Jenn and myself all used the KNIT VERSION of the Starlight City dress.  You could try making the woven version sleeveless but I don't recommend it.  The bodice and sleeve have too much ease to allow the dress to slip over your child's head without any buttons or zipper.

2. Always make a muslin using scrap fabric before cutting into your good fabric! The knit version was made for sleeves so there is some ease built into the armscye of the pattern but not as much as there is in the woven version so I still suggest making a quick test.  Here is my test...I had plenty of this fabric so I didn't mind cutting right into my final fabric.

 

As you can see there is no puckering or gaping in the armscye or shoulders...yay!  As per the size chart, I made the 4t for my 7 year old daughter with a 22" chest (she's a tiny one!).  This same bodice on my 5 year old with a 21" chest did have gaping in the armscye, obviously because it's not her size.  So if your test version does have gaping, I would suggest doing an armscye adjustment by modifying the curve.  Use the armscye of the next size down.  You can also size down but then you'll need to add width to the bodice centers to accommodate for chest width.

3.  If you're using directional fabric you can still cut mirrored sides of the pattern piece!  Fold your fabric down or up instead of side to side so one side doesn't end up upside down.  Place the pattern piece on top of your fabric and cut the two layers.

Now let's get started!

Follow illustrations 1-4 on page 5 of the tutorial to complete your bodice.  Next, I used the "burrito roll" method to enclose the armhole seams.  I took photos of my process with the starlight city dress bodice but if you want to see a video, you can watch the City girl swing top version here.

Step 1- Lay the bodice so that the front bodice main is on top, lining on the bottom.  

Step 2: Starting on the left side, flip the front bodice lining and the reciprocating back bodice so that the right side of the fabric is facing up.  Roll the right side of the bodice main and lining toward the center seam.

Step 3: Wrap the left side of the bodice main so that it meet right sides together with the front bodice lining and back, keeping the rolled bodice sandwiched in the center.  Pin and sew the length of the armscye being careful not to sew through the rolled bodice, then pull the bodice right side out again.

Step 4: Begin the process again with the right half of the bodice.

Step 5:  With right sides together, align existing armhole seams where main and lining meet. Pin in place. Flip the back bodice main to meet the front bodice main so that right sides are together.  The lining should also be right sides together.  Pin and sew a continuous seam from the main side edge down the raw bottom of the lining.  Repeat process for the other side.

I followed the rest of the tutorial to attach the skirt but did one more modification to the pattern to help clean up the edge on the back bodice where the gathered edge meets the elastic gathered edge.

Add 2" total of extra elastic so you can extend it past the casing.  Please note, doing this will leave your elastic partially exposed but will help with the seam allowance from showing when worn. Pull the elastic approximately 1" past the casing.   Line up the elastic along the top folded edge, then fold the seam allowance over the elastic. Sew the elastic and seam allowance together...DO NOT SEW TO ANY OTHER PART OF THE GARMENT!  Repeat on other side then finish securing the elastic as described in the last illustration of the tutorial.

And that's it!  My girls prefer tops and bottoms for school so I cut the skirt length to make this more of a peplum top and paired it with my fave shorts...the Papillon shorties.  One new outfit down from my list of back to school clothes!  And I gotta say I just love how soft and wonderful this European fabric is!!  This 95/5 cotton lycra fabric designed by Tyglycka is made of GOTS certified cotton and GOTS certified printing process.  If you want unique, quality European fabrics, I definitely recommend Jumping June Textiles!  They're super quick with order processing and delivery and have pre-sales on their Facebook group page.

 

And one last pic with my lavender!!  I planted these in front our new house which had ZERO landscaping and I thought I had killed them because they got all dried out but low and behold...a lot of rain, a little sunshine a little pruning and Voila!  They're starting to bloom and it makes my heart happy!!  ...and they smell heavenly!

Thanks for reading!  Can't wait to see your Sleeveless versions of the Starlight City Dress and don't forget to keep a look out for next months FIRST FRIDAY FIVER PATTERN!!

-Jess

 

 


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